Tusken Raider Sniper (Cycler) Rifle Scratch Build
Coming off of the T-21 Light Reapeating Blaster build, I was anxious to get started on my next scratch build. Because I’m working on a Tusken Raider costume, I chose to build the Tusken sniper rifle. I began researching the weapon and found 2 builds that interested me. The first cycler that I bookmarked was from Dave Syczylo. I really like the scope on this build, and used most of Dave’s ideas when constructing this component.
I also referred to a build by Plastic Fury on the Krayt Clan forums. I particularly liked how he secured the barrel and ramrod by using a carved out a piece of aluminum, supplemented with copper wire wrapping. The copper added a splash of color and made it look “scrappy”. I also liked the cabling he used between the stock and scope. These are a few of the ideas that I borrowed from his build.
Like many Tuskens before me, I used the stock template from Studio Creations. I purchased some 1 inch (3/4″ actual) x 12″ x 8′ wood from Lowes, glued it together, and let it sit overnight.
I cut the stock with a jigsaw and sanded the edges down with a mouse sander. I used a cheap 1/4″ trim router with a core box bit from Harbor Freight to channel out some space for the 1/2″ EMT conduit barrel.
To cover the rear of the barrel on the stock, I purchased a 1/2″ pvc elbow and cut it lengthwise.
Test fit, not secured. Will paint it flat black and apply a faux gunmetal finish using graphite powder and satin clear finish. It will be secured with E6000.
I secured the barrel to the stock by drilling 2 holes in the 1/2″ EMT conduit and placing 2 wood screws through the pipe into the wood. I covered the tops of the screws with 1/2″ EMT 2 hole straps. I shaved off the “ears” with a dremel & metal cutting bit. The straps have little knobs inside and “snap” on top of the EMT conduit. If I need to disassemble the rifle, I can easily unsnap these 2 straps and then unscrew the barrel.
With the stock & barrel taking shape, it was time to begin on the scope. Dave Syczylo’s site showed some pics, but didn’t list the parts. I could see from a photo that one of the parts was a Rain Bird 32SA sprinkler. I first checked Home Depot, they didn’t have the sprinkler. I couldn’t ID any of the other parts. I went to Lowe’s and they had this sprinkler for 9 bucks. I really lucked out and found the other parts in the same section.
– Rain Bird 32SA sprinkler
– Orbit Shrub Sprinkler Head
– 1/2″ x 10″ PVC Schedule 80 nipple
– 1/2″ Steel Compression Coupling
– 1″ PVC Coupling
– 1″ x 1/2″ bushing (pic in the link is different, was able to find a round edge at Lowe’s)
– 2″ coupling (I ended up not using this piece, was originally going to be the fat shroud covering one end of the sprinkler)
First thing I did on the scope was to cut the 1/2″ pipe. I cut a 2.5″ piece and a 4″ piece. The 1/2″ compression coupling will connect these 2 pieces.
I roughed the parts up with 400 grit sandpaper to help with primer/paint adhesion. I disassembled the sprinkler and took the spring out so that the top can pop-up freely. This gave me a little more surface area so that I can glue it inside of the 1″ PVC coupling:
Here it is put together with securing rods. The rods were cut from the same aluminum bar that I will use for my breather.
When drilling holes in the stock for the scope rods, use caution. I made a drill jig guide by cutting a block of wood at a 45 degree angle. I placed the block of wood on the rifle stock and drilled the 3 points. The jig gave me a somewhat accurate angle/hole. I also recommend drilling a pilot hole and tape over the drilling area because it will splinter at that angle. Sorry, no pic 🙁
Finishing up the scope, I primed it with gray primer, let it dry thoroughly, then hit it with flat black spray paint. After letting it dry, I lightly buffed the scope with 0000 steel wool to gently scuff the surface. I then generously brushed on General’s Graphite Powder with a large brush. I slopped it on and then rubbed it in with the brush. I sealed it with Krylon Satin finish clear spray. I went over some of the edges with good ol’ Testors silver enamel using the dry-brush technique.
Things are finally starting to come together. With the scope done, its time to add the finishing touches to the stock. I sanded the stock down to a smooth finish with 220 grit sandpaper and applied some Varathane ‘Provincial’ stain. I only needed one coat. Put it on with a sponge craft brush, waited about 3-4 minutes, then wiped it off with a paper towel. I then applied 3 coats of Varathane Satin Polyurethane (waiting the recommended times between coats). For the 2 plates on the butt of the stock, I used Varathane ‘American Walnut’ and again followed it up with a few coats of satin clear. Here are the finishing products I used for the stock and scope:
I used 1/8″ thick wood from Michael’s craft store for the stock plates.
As I previously mentioned, I liked Plastic Fury’s cabling on his rifle. I found a SATA cable at work and rescued it from our e-recycling bin. It will now be re-purposed
I cut the cable to length and stripped the covering, revealing the braided cable underneath. I painted the connector heads black and applied the same gunmetal technique that I used on the scope, using graphite powder. I left the screws silver to give it a little contrast. I ran the cable into the rear of the PVC elbow covering the rear of the barrel. Was working on my Tusken boots at the same time.
And we’re almost done…just need to weather it.
Other items not mentioned:
– the rear stock plates are adorned with pop rivet shells (glued in)
– a turnbuckle near the trigger
– the 3 “bolts” with a rod running through the center at the middle of the stock are 1/2″ pex plugs drilled through the center with an aluminum rod passing through
– the “ramrod” is a zinc rod, the end cap on the “ramrod” is also a 1/2″ pex plug
– the muzzle endcap is a 1/2″ set screw connector
– the trigger guard is 3/4″ x 1/8″ aluminum flat bar
If anyone has done this and added a trigger on it I would love to know what you did! I am planning on doing this and thinking ahead but unsure of what I could do